My "American Girl" Doll

Awhile back I bought an American Girl clone to use as a model for making doll clothes for my granddaughter. She was scandalized that my dolly arrived at my house "nekked". So after making myself some new denim shorts, I took the scraps and made my dolly an outfit. The shoes came from JoAnn's (with a coupon, of course). So here is my "Rebecca" stylin'. Her friend the sheep was made by my daughter.

Sue's Easy Top Down Baby Sweater

For Stephanie and Debbie, who have been asking for me to post this pattern, here it is. I'm sorry it has taken so long. I hope the wait was worth it. The hat is just a standard stocking cap pattern and the little sockies are a pattern by my friend Beth. But any standard baby sock pattern will work.

Sue's Easy Top Down Baby Sweater

Size: 0-3 months

Materials: Soft worsted weight yarn (model made with Caron Simply Soft)

Main Color: approximately 3 oz.

Contrasting Color: small amount

Size 6 and 8 (US) needles (24" circular and straight)

Stitch markers

Size F crochet hook (optional)

Yarn needle

4 buttons

Pattern Notes: To increase, knit in the front and the back of the indicated stitch.

Knitting Tip: When working a garter stitch button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch maker at the point where each band begins. It's a reminder to make sure those 4 stitches are always knitted.

With contrasting color and the smaller circular needles, cast on 52 sts.

Rows 1 and 2: work in K2, P2 ribbing

Row 3: change to main color and continue in K2. P2 ribbing

Row 4: K2, P2 across

Row 5: Change to larger circular needles, buttonhole row.

For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, knit across.

For a girl: Knit across to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2.

Buttonholes will be worked every 8 ridges (2nd on 8th increase row, 3rd on row 7 of the body and 4th on row 23 of the body.

Row 6: Divide work as follows: K4 sts for button border, P8 for the front, pm, P6 for the sleeve, pm, P16 for the back, pm, P6 for the sleeve, pm, P8 for the front, K4 for the border.

Row 7: K to the st before the marker, inc, slip marker, inc, repeat across (8 increases - 60 sts).

Row 8: K4, P to the last 4 sts, K4, slipping markers as you go.

Repeat rows 7 and 8 ten times. You should have a total of 140 sts.

Sleeves

Knit across front to 1st marker. Taking a size 8 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (28) onto the straight needle, remove the 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.

Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 20 rows in stocking st.

Change to smaller straight needles and knit 3 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.

Change to contrasting color and knit 2 rows in K2, P2 ribbing as established. Bind off loosely in ribbing with the contrasting color.

Note: If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18" tail on the main color. If using the alternate sleeve finish don't cut the main color.

I like to seam the underarm at thispoint. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.

Alternate Sleeve Finishing

Fold sleeve right sides together and loosely slip st the underarm together back to armpit edge with an F crochet hook and the MC. Slip the loop from the crochet hook onto your circular knitting needle (one stitch added) and knit across the sweater back. Work the second sleeve the same as the first.

Pick up the circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve. Finish the second sleeve as the first.

Sweater Body

Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front. Turn work.

Next row: K4, purl across to the last 4 sts, knit.

Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows of stocking stitch for the body of the sweater, remembering to work a buttonhole every 8 ridges (on row 7 and row 23). Change to smaller circular needles.

Work 3 rows of K2, P2 ribbing, then change to contrasting color and work 2 rows of ribbing. Bind off loosely in ribbing.

Weave in loose ends.

Sew on buttons.

copyright 2010

Susan A. Coes

Pretzel Barrel Baby Blanket Revisited

I received a note asking me about the pattern I used for the square for this baby blanket. I have posted my version of the square I used for this blanket. It is tagged under afghan squares. 

I also thought it might be helpful to include my strategy. I wanted to use up all my little balls of yarn and maximize usefullness while minimizing waste. So I worked up a chart for the yardage required for each round of the square. Then I could measure my little "waddies" and know which round was best suited for each one thereby reducing waste.

Using an H hook and worsted weight yarn here is what I got:

Round 1: 2 yards (12 stitches)

Round 2: 4 yards (28 stitches)

Round 3: 6 yards (44 stitches)

Round 4: 8 yards (60 stitches)

Round 5: 10 yards (76 stitches)

Round 6: 12 yards (92 stitches)

Round 7: 14 yards (108 stitches)

My target size was a 7 inch square. I don't very often need the 7th round. The yardages will vary somewhat with the thickness of the yarn. The thicker the yarn and the tighter the twist, the fewer stitches you can get from it. I hope this helps.

Sue's Onesie

Sue's Onesie

Materials

For preemie/small newborn size

Size 4 and 6 dpns or 16 inch circular needles
Sport weight or baby yarn - model made with Lion Brand Baby Soft


3 buttons
Stitch markers
3 snaps
2 pieces of ¼ ribbon (each 16 inches long) for girl sleeves


With smaller needles, cast on 58 sts. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 3 rows.

Buttonhole row: K1, P2 tog, yo, continue in ribbing. Work 2 more rows in ribbing.

Switch to larger needles and K 1 row, dividing work as follows: K10, inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K5, inc in next st, place marker, inc n next st, K20, inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K5, inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K10. (8 increases)

Row 2: K5, purl across, K5.

Yoke

Row 3: Knit across, continuing to increase before and after each marker on each knit row.
Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: Purl across, Knitting first 5 and last 5 sts of the row.
Row 5: Buttonhole row. Knit across the row working a K1 increase before and after each marker, to within 3 sts of end, then Yo, K 2 tog, K1.
Rows 7 and 9: Knit
Row 11: repeat row 5.
Row 13 and 15: Knit
Row 16 Placket front: Slip the last 5 sts from needle to dpn, hold behind the first 5 sts. (Make sure the buttonholes are to the outside of the shirt.) Knit the 5 sts from the needle and the 5 sts from the dpn together so you end up with 5 sts and a placket opening. Continue to knit the row on dpns (or circular needles) - knitting is circular.

Next round: inc before and after each marker

Continue inc every other round until yoke measures 3 (3 ½) inches. Measure along raglan line, not including the neck ribbing.

Sleeves: knit to sleeve section, the sts between the first and second markers. Leaving all other sts on circular needles work over sleeve sts with larger dpns. Divide sleeve sts into thirds and join to knit circular. (The sleeves could be worked flat and then the inseam sewn after the shirt is finished.) The beg and end of this row will be the sleeve inseam. K 2 rounds, then switch to smaller needles and work 4 rounds of K1, P1 ribbing. Bind off loosely in ribbing. Attach yarn and knit over to the other sleeve section. Repeat sleeve directions.

Variation - Girl Sleeves: work flat in rows.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl.
Row 3: K1, *K2tog, yo, repeat from * across. Eyelet row
Row 4: purl
Row 5: knit
Row 6: knit
Bind off in knit.
Thread ribbon through eyelets and tie in a bow on top.

Body: All sts remaining are the body of the onesie. Attach yarn and knit circular on right side joining the front to the back . Continue with the body until it is 7 ½ inches long or desired body length.

Leg shaping: Divide work at sides (46 sts to the back and 45 sts to the front).
Back
Using straight needles work across the back sts (leaving the front sts on circular needles).
Row 1: K1, K2tog, K40, K2 tog, K1
Row 2: p1, p2tog, P38, P2tog , P1

Repeat these 2 rows, decreasing 1 st at each side until 18 sts remain. Work 5 rows even.
Next row: P8, P2tog, P8
Bind off in knit.

Front
Using straight needles work across front sts
Row 1: K1, K2tog, K39, K2tog, K1
Row 2: P1, P2tog P 37, P2tog P1

Repeat these 2 rows decreasing 1 st at each side until 17 sts remain. Work 6 rows even. Bind off in knit.

Finishing:
Sew on buttons
Weave in ends
Sew snaps on crotch opening, lapping front over back.

Copyright, April 2004, Susan A. Coes