Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 3 needles:
one set of 24 inch cables
2 sets of 16 inch cables or one set of #3 straights
Cable needle
Yarn needle
7 buttons (7/16 inch)
Pattern Notes:
yo = yarn over
pm = place marker
The little owl is worked from the top down on the sweater.
yo = yarn over
pm = place marker
The little owl is worked from the top down on the sweater.
Knitting Tip: When working a garter st button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch marker at the point where each band begins. It’s a reminder to make sure those 4 sts are always knitted.
Cast on 68 sts
Rows 1 and 2: work in k2, p2 ribbing
Row 3: Buttonhole row.
For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, Knit across
For a girl: K to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2
Rows 4-6: Continue in k2, p2 ribbing
Rows 1 and 2: work in k2, p2 ribbing
Row 3: Buttonhole row.
For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, Knit across
For a girl: K to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2
Rows 4-6: Continue in k2, p2 ribbing
Yoke
Row 1: k4 (button band), k9 for front, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k30 for back, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k9 for front, k4 (button band)
Row 2: k4, purl across slipping markers as you go, k4
Row 3: k4, k to the st before the next marker, inc slip marker, inc, repeat across (total of 8 increases - 76 sts)
Work buttonholes after every 8th ridge on the button band.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 seventeen times. You should have 212 stitches and you will have worked a total of 3 button holes.
Row 1: k4 (button band), k9 for front, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k30 for back, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k9 for front, k4 (button band)
Row 2: k4, purl across slipping markers as you go, k4
Row 3: k4, k to the st before the next marker, inc slip marker, inc, repeat across (total of 8 increases - 76 sts)
Work buttonholes after every 8th ridge on the button band.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 seventeen times. You should have 212 stitches and you will have worked a total of 3 button holes.
Sleeves (done on straight needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the straight needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.
Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 37 rows in stockinette st.
Decrease 2 sts in the last row.
Knit 12 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the straight needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.
Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 37 rows in stockinette st.
Decrease 2 sts in the last row.
Knit 12 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Note: If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18” tail.
I like to seam the underarm at this point. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.
I like to seam the underarm at this point. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.
Sleeves (done on circular needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 circular needle (16 inch), remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the shorter circular needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the long circular needle.
Transfer 21 stitches to the 2nd shorter circular needle.
Rnd 1: Slide the sts on needle #2 onto the cable part of the needle and then drop it to the back. Using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Rnd 2: Drop needle #2 to the back and using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 seventeen times for a total of 37 rounds.
Decrease 2 sts in the last round
Knit 12 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 circular needle (16 inch), remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the shorter circular needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the long circular needle.
Transfer 21 stitches to the 2nd shorter circular needle.
Rnd 1: Slide the sts on needle #2 onto the cable part of the needle and then drop it to the back. Using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Rnd 2: Drop needle #2 to the back and using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 seventeen times for a total of 37 rounds.
Decrease 2 sts in the last round
Knit 12 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Pick up the longer circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish or the circular needle sleeve, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve. Finish the second sleeve as the first.
Note: When attaching the yarn under the arm, leave a long tail to use in stitching up the little hole that will be left when the sweater is finished.
Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front. Turn work.
Next row: K4, purl across to last 4 sts, knit.
Always remember to work a buttonhole after every 8th ridge.
Body
Row 1: knit across
Row 2: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3: k10, p3 k8,p3 , k80, p3, k8, p3, k10
Row 4: k4, p6, k3, p8, k3, p80, k3, p8, k3, p6, k4
Row 5: k10, *p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, p3,** k80, repeat from * to ** k10
Row 6: repeat row 4
Row 7: k10, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k80, p3 k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k10
Row 8: k4, p6, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p80, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p6, k4
Row 9: repeat row 3
Row 10: repeat row 4
Row 11: repeat row 5
Row 12: repeat row 4
Row 13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 4
Row 15: repeat row 3
Row 16: repeat row 4
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 4
Row 19: repeat row 5
Row 20: repeat row 4
Row 21: repeat row 3
Beginning with a purl row work 16 rows of stockinette stitch.
Work 12 rows of k2, p2 ribbing
Bind off loosely in ribbing
Weave in ends, stitch closed the little hole in the underarm, sew buttons on the button band opposite the button holes.
Next row: K4, purl across to last 4 sts, knit.
Always remember to work a buttonhole after every 8th ridge.
Body
Row 1: knit across
Row 2: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3: k10, p3 k8,p3 , k80, p3, k8, p3, k10
Row 4: k4, p6, k3, p8, k3, p80, k3, p8, k3, p6, k4
Row 5: k10, *p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, p3,** k80, repeat from * to ** k10
Row 6: repeat row 4
Row 7: k10, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k80, p3 k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k10
Row 8: k4, p6, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p80, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p6, k4
Row 9: repeat row 3
Row 10: repeat row 4
Row 11: repeat row 5
Row 12: repeat row 4
Row 13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 4
Row 15: repeat row 3
Row 16: repeat row 4
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 4
Row 19: repeat row 5
Row 20: repeat row 4
Row 21: repeat row 3
Beginning with a purl row work 16 rows of stockinette stitch.
Work 12 rows of k2, p2 ribbing
Bind off loosely in ribbing
Weave in ends, stitch closed the little hole in the underarm, sew buttons on the button band opposite the button holes.
Little Owl Hat
Size: newborn
Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 4 and 6 needles either straights or a 24 inch cable
(You will be working back and forth in rows.)
Cable needle
Yarn needle
Pattern notes: The little owl is worked from the bottom up on the hat.
I have been asked by many people about the patterns for the gowns I made for Pomona Valley Hospital.
The blanket is my pattern for the Snowflake Kisses blanket. The pattern is available here on my blog. The pattern for this little white gown is from Inknitters Magazine Fall '04 Charity supplement. It is available online here:




Size: newborn
Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 4 and 6 needles either straights or a 24 inch cable
(You will be working back and forth in rows.)
Cable needle
Yarn needle
Pattern notes: The little owl is worked from the bottom up on the hat.
Cast on 68 sts with smaller needles
Work k2, p2 ribbing for 3 inches increasing 1 st on each end of the last row.
Switch to larger needles
Row 1: right side (p3, k8) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 2: (k3, p8) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 3: (p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle) repeat across ending with p3.
Work k2, p2 ribbing for 3 inches increasing 1 st on each end of the last row.
Switch to larger needles
Row 1: right side (p3, k8) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 2: (k3, p8) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 3: (p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 1
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1
Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 3
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13: (p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 14: (k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 15: repeat row 1
Row 16: repeat row 2
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 1
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1
Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 3
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13: (p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 14: (k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 15: repeat row 1
Row 16: repeat row 2
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 2
Beginning with a knit row work 6 rows of stockinette stitch.
Begin decrease rows:
Row 1: (knit 5, k2tog) repeat across
Row 2: purl across
Repeat these 2 rows with one less stitch between decreases each time until you complete the row (k2 tog across). Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread the tail into the yarn needle and weave through the remaining sts, pull up tightly and fasten securely. Sew the seam, reversing the seam when you get to the fold up part of the cuff.
Copyright 2011
Susan A. Coes
all rights reserved
Please respect my decision to provide this pattern free of charge by not selling copies or trying to claim it as your own.
Begin decrease rows:
Row 1: (knit 5, k2tog) repeat across
Row 2: purl across
Repeat these 2 rows with one less stitch between decreases each time until you complete the row (k2 tog across). Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread the tail into the yarn needle and weave through the remaining sts, pull up tightly and fasten securely. Sew the seam, reversing the seam when you get to the fold up part of the cuff.
Copyright 2011
Susan A. Coes
all rights reserved
Please respect my decision to provide this pattern free of charge by not selling copies or trying to claim it as your own.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Blessing Sets for Pomona Valley Hospital
I have been asked by many people about the patterns for the gowns I made for Pomona Valley Hospital. The blanket pattern was a free pattern offered in a newsletter to which I subscribe. The pattern for the pink and white gown can be found here:
http://www.angelfire.com/va/afghans4angels2/NewbornBurialGownSet.html
http://www.angelfire.com/va/afghans4angels2/NewbornBurialGownSet.html
The blanket is my pattern for the Snowflake Kisses blanket. The pattern is available here on my blog. The pattern for this little white gown is from Inknitters Magazine Fall '04 Charity supplement. It is available online here: The pattern for this blanket is from a Leisure Arts Leaflet #3403, Cuddly Pooh Afghans for the Nursery. The third gown was designed by Barbara Wampler and she has since removed the pattern from the internet due to people's misuse - a sad but necessary thing to do sometimes. Thank you to everyone who has very kindly complimented me on my work. I firmly believe that when God gives you a gift it is your duty to share that gift with the world.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Erica's Scrap Quilt
Another Scrap Quilt


My niece, Erica is expecting her first child in June. Since she wanted to decorate the baby's room in bright primary colors, I decided to make her a crib quilt in those colors. I went to my mom's scrap basket and pulled out all the little pieces in red, blue, green, yellow and orange and set to work. I chose a modified log cabin pattern and crafted 6 inch blocks. I found backing material that was balloons in the exact same colors. The sashing is white on white with dots that seem to match the colored ones on the back. I finished it off with Prairie Points in the same primary colors.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Revising Snowflake Kisses Baby Blanket
I would like to thank Sandi for bringing to my attention that the directions for the Snowflake Kisses Baby Blanket needed some tweaking to make them more easily understood. http://needleworkersroom.blogspot.com/2008/08/snowflake-kisses-baby-blanket.html
To that end I have edited the pattern and printed the changes in red. The confusion came from the fact that the pattern repeat is a multiple of 8 plus 5. So strictly speaking, to count the stitches in pure mathematical form doesn't work. I hope this makes things a little more clear.
Thank you to everyone who has used my patterns and enjoyed them. It brings me great joy to be able to write them for you.
Thursday, September 16, 2010
My "American Girl" Doll
Awhile back I bought an American Girl clone to use as a model for making doll clothes for my granddaughter. She was scandalized that my dolly arrived at my house "nekked". So after making myself some new denim shorts, I took the scraps and made my dolly an outfit. The shoes came from JoAnn's (with a coupon, of course). So here is my "Rebecca" stylin'. Her friend the sheep was made by my daughter.
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Sue's Easy Top Down Baby Sweater
For Stephanie and Debbie, who have been asking for me to post this pattern, here it is. I'm sorry it has taken so long. I hope the wait was worth it. The hat is just a standard stocking cap pattern and the little sockies are a pattern by my friend Beth. But any standard baby sock pattern will work.
Sue's Easy Top Down Baby Sweater
Size: 0-3 months
Materials: Soft worsted weight yarn (model made with Caron Simply Soft)
Main Color: approximately 3 oz.
Contrasting Color: small amount
Size 6 and 8 (US) needles (24" circular and straight)
Stitch markers
Size F crochet hook (optional)
Yarn needle
4 buttons
Pattern Notes: To increase, knit in the front and the back of the indicated stitch.
Knitting Tip: When working a garter stitch button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch maker at the point where each band begins. It's a reminder to make sure those 4 stitches are always knitted.
With contrasting color and the smaller circular needles, cast on 52 sts.
Rows 1 and 2: work in K2, P2 ribbing
Row 3: change to main color and continue in K2. P2 ribbing
Row 4: K2, P2 across
Row 5: Change to larger circular needles, buttonhole row.
For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, knit across.
For a girl: Knit across to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2.
Buttonholes will be worked every 8 ridges (2nd on 8th increase row, 3rd on row 7 of the body and 4th on row 23 of the body.
Row 6: Divide work as follows: K4 sts for button border, P8 for the front, pm, P6 for the sleeve, pm, P16 for the back, pm, P6 for the sleeve, pm, P8 for the front, K4 for the border.
Row 7: K to the st before the marker, inc, slip marker, inc, repeat across (8 increases - 60 sts).
Row 8: K4, P to the last 4 sts, K4, slipping markers as you go.
Repeat rows 7 and 8 ten times. You should have a total of 140 sts.
Sleeves
Knit across front to 1st marker. Taking a size 8 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (28) onto the straight needle, remove the 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.
Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 20 rows in stocking st.
Change to smaller straight needles and knit 3 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.
Change to contrasting color and knit 2 rows in K2, P2 ribbing as established. Bind off loosely in ribbing with the contrasting color.
Note: If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18" tail on the main color. If using the alternate sleeve finish don't cut the main color.
I like to seam the underarm at thispoint. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.
Alternate Sleeve Finishing
Fold sleeve right sides together and loosely slip st the underarm together back to armpit edge with an F crochet hook and the MC. Slip the loop from the crochet hook onto your circular knitting needle (one stitch added) and knit across the sweater back. Work the second sleeve the same as the first.
Pick up the circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve. Finish the second sleeve as the first.
Sweater Body
Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front. Turn work.
Next row: K4, purl across to the last 4 sts, knit.
Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows of stocking stitch for the body of the sweater, remembering to work a buttonhole every 8 ridges (on row 7 and row 23). Change to smaller circular needles.
Work 3 rows of K2, P2 ribbing, then change to contrasting color and work 2 rows of ribbing. Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Weave in loose ends.
Sew on buttons.
copyright 2010
Susan A. Coes
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