Size: newborn
Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 3 needles:
one set of 24 inch cables
2 sets of 16 inch cables or one set of #3 straights
Cable needle
Yarn needle
7 buttons (7/16 inch)
Pattern Notes:
yo = yarn over
pm = place marker
The little owl is worked from the top down on the sweater.
yo = yarn over
pm = place marker
The little owl is worked from the top down on the sweater.
Knitting Tip: When working a garter st button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch marker at the point where each band begins. It’s a reminder to make sure those 4 sts are always knitted.
Cast on 68 sts
Rows 1 and 2: work in k2, p2 ribbing
Row 3: Buttonhole row.
For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, Knit across
For a girl: K to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2
Rows 4-6: Continue in k2, p2 ribbing
Rows 1 and 2: work in k2, p2 ribbing
Row 3: Buttonhole row.
For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, Knit across
For a girl: K to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2
Rows 4-6: Continue in k2, p2 ribbing
Yoke
Row 1: k4 (button band), k9 for front, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k30 for back, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k9 for front, k4 (button band)
Row 2: k4, purl across slipping markers as you go, k4
Row 3: k4, k to the st before the next marker, inc slip marker, inc, repeat across (total of 8 increases - 76 sts)
Work buttonholes after every 8th ridge on the button band.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 seventeen times. You should have 212 stitches and you will have worked a total of 3 button holes.
Row 1: k4 (button band), k9 for front, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k30 for back, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k9 for front, k4 (button band)
Row 2: k4, purl across slipping markers as you go, k4
Row 3: k4, k to the st before the next marker, inc slip marker, inc, repeat across (total of 8 increases - 76 sts)
Work buttonholes after every 8th ridge on the button band.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 seventeen times. You should have 212 stitches and you will have worked a total of 3 button holes.
Sleeves (done on straight needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the straight needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.
Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 37 rows in stockinette st.
Decrease 2 sts in the last row.
Knit 12 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the straight needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.
Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 37 rows in stockinette st.
Decrease 2 sts in the last row.
Knit 12 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Note: If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18” tail.
I like to seam the underarm at this point. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.
I like to seam the underarm at this point. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.
Sleeves (done on circular needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 circular needle (16 inch), remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the shorter circular needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the long circular needle.
Transfer 21 stitches to the 2nd shorter circular needle.
Rnd 1: Slide the sts on needle #2 onto the cable part of the needle and then drop it to the back. Using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Rnd 2: Drop needle #2 to the back and using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 seventeen times for a total of 37 rounds.
Decrease 2 sts in the last round
Knit 12 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 circular needle (16 inch), remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the shorter circular needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the long circular needle.
Transfer 21 stitches to the 2nd shorter circular needle.
Rnd 1: Slide the sts on needle #2 onto the cable part of the needle and then drop it to the back. Using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Rnd 2: Drop needle #2 to the back and using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 seventeen times for a total of 37 rounds.
Decrease 2 sts in the last round
Knit 12 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Pick up the longer circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish or the circular needle sleeve, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve. Finish the second sleeve as the first.
Note: When attaching the yarn under the arm, leave a long tail to use in stitching up the little hole that will be left when the sweater is finished.
Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front. Turn work.
Next row: K4, purl across to last 4 sts, knit.
Always remember to work a buttonhole after every 8th ridge.
Body
Row 1: knit across
Row 2: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3: k10, p3 k8,p3 , k80, p3, k8, p3, k10
Row 4: k4, p6, k3, p8, k3, p80, k3, p8, k3, p6, k4
Row 5: k10, *p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, p3,** k80, repeat from * to ** k10
Row 6: repeat row 4
Row 7: k10, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k80, p3 k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k10
Row 8: k4, p6, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p80, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p6, k4
Row 9: repeat row 3
Row 10: repeat row 4
Row 11: repeat row 5
Row 12: repeat row 4
Row 13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 4
Row 15: repeat row 3
Row 16: repeat row 4
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 4
Row 19: repeat row 5
Row 20: repeat row 4
Row 21: repeat row 3
Beginning with a purl row work 16 rows of stockinette stitch.
Work 12 rows of k2, p2 ribbing
Bind off loosely in ribbing
Weave in ends, stitch closed the little hole in the underarm, sew buttons on the button band opposite the button holes.
Next row: K4, purl across to last 4 sts, knit.
Always remember to work a buttonhole after every 8th ridge.
Body
Row 1: knit across
Row 2: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3: k10, p3 k8,p3 , k80, p3, k8, p3, k10
Row 4: k4, p6, k3, p8, k3, p80, k3, p8, k3, p6, k4
Row 5: k10, *p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, p3,** k80, repeat from * to ** k10
Row 6: repeat row 4
Row 7: k10, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k80, p3 k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k10
Row 8: k4, p6, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p80, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p6, k4
Row 9: repeat row 3
Row 10: repeat row 4
Row 11: repeat row 5
Row 12: repeat row 4
Row 13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 4
Row 15: repeat row 3
Row 16: repeat row 4
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 4
Row 19: repeat row 5
Row 20: repeat row 4
Row 21: repeat row 3
Beginning with a purl row work 16 rows of stockinette stitch.
Work 12 rows of k2, p2 ribbing
Bind off loosely in ribbing
Weave in ends, stitch closed the little hole in the underarm, sew buttons on the button band opposite the button holes.
Little Owl Hat
Size: newborn
Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 4 and 6 needles either straights or a 24 inch cable
(You will be working back and forth in rows.)
Cable needle
Yarn needle
Pattern notes: The little owl is worked from the bottom up on the hat.
Size: newborn
Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 4 and 6 needles either straights or a 24 inch cable
(You will be working back and forth in rows.)
Cable needle
Yarn needle
Pattern notes: The little owl is worked from the bottom up on the hat.
Cast on 68 sts with smaller needles
Work k2, p2 ribbing for 3 inches increasing 1 st on each end of the last row.
Switch to larger needles
Row 1: right side (p3, k8) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 2: (k3, p8) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 3: (p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle) repeat across ending with p3.
Work k2, p2 ribbing for 3 inches increasing 1 st on each end of the last row.
Switch to larger needles
Row 1: right side (p3, k8) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 2: (k3, p8) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 3: (p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 1
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1
Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 3
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13: (p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 14: (k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 15: repeat row 1
Row 16: repeat row 2
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 1
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1
Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 3
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13: (p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 14: (k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 15: repeat row 1
Row 16: repeat row 2
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 2
Beginning with a knit row work 6 rows of stockinette stitch.
Begin decrease rows:
Row 1: (knit 5, k2tog) repeat across
Row 2: purl across
Repeat these 2 rows with one less stitch between decreases each time until you complete the row (k2 tog across). Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread the tail into the yarn needle and weave through the remaining sts, pull up tightly and fasten securely. Sew the seam, reversing the seam when you get to the fold up part of the cuff.
Copyright 2011
Susan A. Coes
all rights reserved
Please respect my decision to provide this pattern free of charge by not selling copies or trying to claim it as your own.
Begin decrease rows:
Row 1: (knit 5, k2tog) repeat across
Row 2: purl across
Repeat these 2 rows with one less stitch between decreases each time until you complete the row (k2 tog across). Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread the tail into the yarn needle and weave through the remaining sts, pull up tightly and fasten securely. Sew the seam, reversing the seam when you get to the fold up part of the cuff.
Copyright 2011
Susan A. Coes
all rights reserved
Please respect my decision to provide this pattern free of charge by not selling copies or trying to claim it as your own.
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15 comments:
Thank you for sharing this pattern. I've saved it and will try it soon.
Thank you so much for sharing this. This is EXACTLY what I was looking for for the arrival of my first baby this winter. Is there also a pattern for the booties?
Congratulations! I am so glad that you like the sweater set. The booties are actually just regular baby socks. There are a lot of patterns out there for baby socks. Or you could use my pattern for bootie socks that is also posted on my blog. Just change the cuff for ribbing.
Sorry to sound thick are the needles 3mm or size 3 am from the UK, we have Double Knit which knits on 3.25mm and 4mm or size 10 ND 8. Then 4ply which is usually done on 3.00mm and 3.75mm which we say is 11 and 9's. Thank you this is a beautiful little set, plan to make it for premature babies. :)
Hi Michelle, No need to apologize. I used a #3 US. That translates to 3.25 mm or a size 10 UK. I hope this helps.
This is so adorable. Thank you so very much for offering it for free. My grandchildren are too old for it, but I plan on making the set for my husband's pregnant colleague. Thanks again!
Hi, thank you for this cute pattern. I started knitting the hat but ran into a problem.
I knit the first 3 inches of ribbing on the 68 stitches, no problem
Next row where you increase one stitch at the end of each row, no problem, Now have 70 stitches
Problem: ( p3. k8) repeat across Ending In Purl 3. There are 4 stitches left, What should I do ? Do i have too many stitches> Please help. I am knitting these hats for my niece"s twins. Thank you
Hi France, thank you for your question. I just checked my notes and found that I had corrected the spot in question and forgot to edit the pattern. You are right! You have one too many stitches. The pattern should read, "increase 1 stitch at the beginning of the last row of ribbing." I'm so sorry for the confusion! Thank you for asking!
Sue
Thank you so much for thisd pattern. :-)
Where is the booties part of the pattern?
The booties pictures with this pattern are just standard baby socks. The pattern I used is in a Leisure Arts booklet. I do have a bootie pattern listed under baby booties that you can use with the Little Owl. You could put ribbing at the ankle instead of the garter band I used.
I can't seem to find a gauge listed. I have a tendency to need smaller needles than generally called for but I don't know whether to go down 1, 2 or 3 sizes. Help please. I really love this pattern and want to make it for my impending grandbabies.
On size 6 needles, he gauge would be 5 stitches to the inch and 7 rows to the inch. I hope this helps.
Hi, I am almost to the point of starting the sleeves on this pattern, I’m just reading through and we finish the 17 rows of 1&2 with a knit stitch, then for the beginning of the sleeves it states to knit to first sleeve, then knit the sleeve onto separate needles, wouldn’t this leave a ridge in the cardigan? Or should I knit the sleeve out separately whilst doing the last increase row? Sorry if I have confused you, I think I have confused myself lol
Hi Jemma, putting the sleeve stitches on a separate needle doesn't leave a ridge as long as you are using the same size needles. I have done the sleeves with straight needles and then sewn the underarm seam as well as on circulars so I don't have a seam. It works either way you are comfortable with. I hope that helps
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