Showing posts with label baby sweaters. Show all posts
Showing posts with label baby sweaters. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Little Owl Variation


Some time ago I promised to post the pattern for the Little Owl Sweater variation.  Life happened and I never got it posted.  My apologies to all of you who asked for it.  Here it is in all its glory.  The patterns for the hat and booties are with the original post for the Little Owl Sweater.



Size: newborn
Materials:  Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 3 needles:
one set of 24 inch cables
2 sets of 16 inch cables or one set of #3 straights
Cable needle
Yarn needle
7 buttons (7/16 inch)
Pattern Notes:
yo  =  yarn over
pm  =  place marker
The little owl is worked from the top down on the sweater.

Knitting Tip:  When working a garter st button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch marker at the point where each band begins.  It’s a reminder to make sure those 4 sts are always knitted.

Cast on 68 sts
Rows 1 and 2: work in k2, p2 ribbing
Row 3:  Buttonhole row.
For a boy:  K2, yo, K2 tog, K2, P2 across
For a girl:  K2, P2 to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2
Rows 4-6:  Continue in k2, p2 ribbing

Yoke
Row 1:  k4 (button band), k9 for front, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k30 for back, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k9 for front, k4 (button band)
Row 2:  k4, purl across slipping markers as you go, k4
Row 3:  k4, k to the st before the next marker, inc slip marker, inc, repeat across  (total of 8 increases - 76 sts)

Work buttonholes after every 8th ridge on the button band.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 seventeen times.  You should have 212 stitches and you will have worked a total of 3 button holes.

Sleeves (done on straight needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve.  Taking a size 3 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the straight needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.
Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 37 rows in stockinette st.
Decrease 2 sts in the last row.
Knit 12 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.

Note:  If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18” tail.

I like to seam the underarm at this point.  It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.

Sleeves (done on circular needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve.  Taking a size 3 circular needle (16 inch), remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the shorter circular needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the long circular needle.
Transfer 21 stitches to the 2nd shorter circular needle.

Rnd 1:  Slide the sts on needle #2 onto the cable part of the needle and then drop it to the back.  Using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts.  Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.

Rnd 2:  Drop needle #2 to the back and using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts.  Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.

Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 seventeen times for a total of 37 rounds.
Decrease 2 sts in the last round
Knit 12 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Pick up the longer circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish or the circular needle sleeve, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve.  Finish the second sleeve as the first.

Note:  When attaching the yarn under the arm, leave a long tail to use in stitching up the little hole that will be left when the sweater is finished.

Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front.  Turn work.
Next row:  K4, purl across to last 4 sts, knit.

Always remember to work a buttonhole after every 8th ridge.

Body
Row 1:  knit across, increase 2 sts in each armhole (124 sts)
Row 2:  k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3:  knit across
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 16 rows
Row 17:  (right side) k4, (p3, k8) repeat across ending with p3, k4
Row 18:  (wrong side) k4, (k3, p8) repeat across ending with k7
Row 19:  k4, (p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back k2, k2 from cable needle, p3) repeat across ending with p3, k4
Row 20: Repeat row 18
Row 21:  k4, (p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1) repeat across ending with p3, k4
Row 22:  k4, (k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) repeat across ending with k7
Row 23:  (buttonhole row) repeat row 17
Row 24:  repeat row 18
Row 25:  repeat row 19 (cable row)
Row 26:  repeat row 18
Row 27:  repeat row 17
Row 28:  repeat row 18
Row 29:  repeat row 17
Row 30:  repeat row 18
Row 31:  repeat row 17
Row 32:  repeat row 18
Row 33:  repeat row 19 (cable row)
Row 34:  repeat row 18
Row 35:  repeat row 17
Row 36:  k4, purl across, k4
Row 37:  knit across

Work 12 rows of k2, p2 ribbing
Bind off loosely in ribbing
Weave in ends, stitch closed the little hole in the underarm, sew buttons on the button band opposite the button holes.

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Little Owl Sweater Set Pattern

Size: newborn
Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 3 needles:
one set of 24 inch cables
2 sets of 16 inch cables or one set of #3 straights
Cable needle
Yarn needle
7 buttons (7/16 inch)
Pattern Notes:
yo = yarn over
pm = place marker
The little owl is worked from the top down on the sweater.
Knitting Tip: When working a garter st button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch marker at the point where each band begins. It’s a reminder to make sure those 4 sts are always knitted.
Cast on 68 sts
Rows 1 and 2: work in k2, p2 ribbing
Row 3: Buttonhole row.
For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, Knit across
For a girl: K to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2
Rows 4-6: Continue in k2, p2 ribbing
Yoke
Row 1: k4 (button band), k9 for front, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k30 for back, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k9 for front, k4 (button band)
Row 2: k4, purl across slipping markers as you go, k4
Row 3: k4, k to the st before the next marker, inc slip marker, inc, repeat across (total of 8 increases - 76 sts)
Work buttonholes after every 8th ridge on the button band.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 seventeen times. You should have 212 stitches and you will have worked a total of 3 button holes.
Sleeves (done on straight needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the straight needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.
Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 37 rows in stockinette st.
Decrease 2 sts in the last row.
Knit 12 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Note: If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18” tail.
I like to seam the underarm at this point. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.
Sleeves (done on circular needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 circular needle (16 inch), remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the shorter circular needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the long circular needle.
Transfer 21 stitches to the 2nd shorter circular needle.

Rnd 1: Slide the sts on needle #2 onto the cable part of the needle and then drop it to the back. Using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Rnd 2: Drop needle #2 to the back and using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.

Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 seventeen times for a total of 37 rounds.
Decrease 2 sts in the last round
Knit 12 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Pick up the longer circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish or the circular needle sleeve, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve. Finish the second sleeve as the first.
Note: When attaching the yarn under the arm, leave a long tail to use in stitching up the little hole that will be left when the sweater is finished.
Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front. Turn work.
Next row: K4, purl across to last 4 sts, knit.
Always remember to work a buttonhole after every 8th ridge.

Body
Row 1:
knit across
Row 2: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3: k10, p3 k8,p3 , k80, p3, k8, p3, k10
Row 4: k4, p6, k3, p8, k3, p80, k3, p8, k3, p6, k4
Row 5: k10, *p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, p3,** k80, repeat from * to ** k10
Row 6: repeat row 4
Row 7: k10, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k80, p3 k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k10
Row 8: k4, p6, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p80, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p6, k4
Row 9: repeat row 3
Row 10: repeat row 4
Row 11: repeat row 5
Row 12: repeat row 4
Row 13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 4
Row 15: repeat row 3
Row 16: repeat row 4
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 4
Row 19: repeat row 5
Row 20: repeat row 4
Row 21: repeat row 3
Beginning with a purl row work 16 rows of stockinette stitch.
Work 12 rows of k2, p2 ribbing
Bind off loosely in ribbing

Weave in ends, stitch closed the little hole in the underarm, sew buttons on the button band opposite the button holes.

Little Owl Hat

Size: newborn
Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 4 and 6 needles either straights or a 24 inch cable
(You will be working back and forth in rows.)
Cable needle
Yarn needle

Pattern notes: The little owl is worked from the bottom up on the hat.
Cast on 68 sts with smaller needles
Work k2, p2 ribbing for 3 inches increasing 1 st on each end of the last row.
Switch to larger needles
Row 1: right side (p3, k8) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 2: (k3, p8) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 3: (p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 1
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1
Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 3
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13: (p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 14: (k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 15: repeat row 1
Row 16: repeat row 2
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 2
Beginning with a knit row work 6 rows of stockinette stitch.
Begin decrease rows:
Row 1: (knit 5, k2tog) repeat across
Row 2: purl across
Repeat these 2 rows with one less stitch between decreases each time until you complete the row (k2 tog across). Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread the tail into the yarn needle and weave through the remaining sts, pull up tightly and fasten securely. Sew the seam, reversing the seam when you get to the fold up part of the cuff.

Copyright 2011
Susan A. Coes
all rights reserved

Please respect my decision to provide this pattern free of charge by not selling copies or trying to claim it as your own.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Little Owl Sweater Set



I just finished my newest sweater set. I couldn't wait until I wrote out all the directions, so I am just sharing the picture right now. As soon as I get everything all written out, I will post the pattern. This one is done with sport weight yarn and size 3 needles and is newborn size.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Sue's Easy Top Down Baby Sweater


For Stephanie and Debbie, who have been asking for me to post this pattern, here it is. I'm sorry it has taken so long. I hope the wait was worth it. The hat is just a standard stocking cap pattern and the little sockies are a pattern by my friend Beth. But any standard baby sock pattern will work.


Sue's Easy Top Down Baby Sweater



Size: 0-3 months

Materials: Soft worsted weight yarn (model made with Caron Simply Soft)

Main Color: approximately 3 oz.

Contrasting Color: small amount

Size 6 and 8 (US) needles (24" circular and straight)

Stitch markers

Size F crochet hook (optional)

Yarn needle

4 buttons


Pattern Notes: To increase, knit in the front and the back of the indicated stitch.


Knitting Tip: When working a garter stitch button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch maker at the point where each band begins. It's a reminder to make sure those 4 stitches are always knitted.


With contrasting color and the smaller circular needles, cast on 52 sts.

Rows 1 and 2: work in K2, P2 ribbing

Row 3: change to main color and continue in K2. P2 ribbing

Row 4: K2, P2 across

Row 5: Change to larger circular needles, buttonhole row.

For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, knit across.

For a girl: Knit across to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2.


Buttonholes will be worked every 8 ridges (2nd on 8th increase row, 3rd on row 7 of the body and 4th on row 23 of the body.


Row 6: Divide work as follows: K4 sts for button border, P8 for the front, pm, P6 for the sleeve, pm, P16 for the back, pm, P6 for the sleeve, pm, P8 for the front, K4 for the border.

Row 7: K to the st before the marker, inc, slip marker, inc, repeat across (8 increases - 60 sts).

Row 8: K4, P to the last 4 sts, K4, slipping markers as you go.

Repeat rows 7 and 8 ten times. You should have a total of 140 sts.


Sleeves

Knit across front to 1st marker. Taking a size 8 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (28) onto the straight needle, remove the 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.

Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 20 rows in stocking st.

Change to smaller straight needles and knit 3 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.

Change to contrasting color and knit 2 rows in K2, P2 ribbing as established. Bind off loosely in ribbing with the contrasting color.


Note: If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18" tail on the main color. If using the alternate sleeve finish don't cut the main color.


I like to seam the underarm at thispoint. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.


Alternate Sleeve Finishing

Fold sleeve right sides together and loosely slip st the underarm together back to armpit edge with an F crochet hook and the MC. Slip the loop from the crochet hook onto your circular knitting needle (one stitch added) and knit across the sweater back. Work the second sleeve the same as the first.


Pick up the circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve. Finish the second sleeve as the first.


Sweater Body

Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front. Turn work.

Next row: K4, purl across to the last 4 sts, knit.


Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows of stocking stitch for the body of the sweater, remembering to work a buttonhole every 8 ridges (on row 7 and row 23). Change to smaller circular needles.

Work 3 rows of K2, P2 ribbing, then change to contrasting color and work 2 rows of ribbing. Bind off loosely in ribbing.


Weave in loose ends.

Sew on buttons.


copyright 2010

Susan A. Coes

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

The Hexagon Sweater Revisited

I have finally written my notes up for my version of the Hexagon Sweater.
Sue's Hexagon Baby Sweater

Materials: sport weight yarn
(I used Lion Brand Baby Soft) and an F hook



Ch 6, join yarn with a sl st to form a ring.



Round 1: Ch 3 (count as 1st dc), 2 dc in ring, *ch 2, 3 dc in ring, repeat from * 4 times, ch 1, hdc into top of beg ch 3 (6 sets of 3 dc).



Round 2: ch 3, dc in same space, *dc in each dc, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 space, repeat from * 4 times, dc in each dc, 2dc in ch 2 sp, ch 1, hdc in top of ch 3.



Rounds 3 - 12: Repeat round 2

At the end of round 2 fasten off. Make a second hexagon leaving abut a yard of yarn for use in stitching.

Sew the 2 hexagons together along one side and then fold the "wrinkled bathmat" to us an Elizabeth Zimmermann phrase into a sweater. The seam you just sewed is the center back. The tops of the sleeves will be open. Refer to the link of the original for pictures.

Sew the top of sleeve seams from the cuff edge to 3 1/2 inches from each front edge.

Collar
Join yarn with a sl st at the front neck edge, ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each st to shoulder seam, *dc dec over next 2 sts, dc in next 5 sts, rep from * to next shoulder seam, dc in each st to neck edge, 2 dc in top of turning ch.

Row 2: Turn, ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st.

Rows 3 - 5: Repeat row 2

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Cuffs
Join yarn with sl st at the underarm edge (directly below the shoulder when the sleeve is folded flat). Ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, * dc dec over next 2 sts, dc in next 5 sts, repeat around, join with a sl st in top of beg ch 3.

Round 2: Repeat round 1

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st in beg ch, fasten off, weave in ends.

Repeat for other sleeve.

Edging
join yarn with sl st at neck edge, just below collar. Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sk 1 st, sc in next st (button loop made), sc in next 10 sts, repeat from * 3 times, sc in last dc, 2 sc, ch 2, 2 dc in corner ch loop, dc in each st all the way around the bottom edge to other front corner, 5 dc in corner ch loop, dc in each st up front (for button band) to neck edge, ch 1, turn, sc in each st down front and across back ending at bottom front corner. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew buttons on button band opposite button loops.

I hope that this is clear and easy to follow. If anyone finds any mistakes, please let me know. Thank you.