Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Little Owl Variation


Some time ago I promised to post the pattern for the Little Owl Sweater variation.  Life happened and I never got it posted.  My apologies to all of you who asked for it.  Here it is in all its glory.  The patterns for the hat and booties are with the original post for the Little Owl Sweater.



Size: newborn
Materials:  Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 3 needles:
one set of 24 inch cables
2 sets of 16 inch cables or one set of #3 straights
Cable needle
Yarn needle
7 buttons (7/16 inch)
Pattern Notes:
yo  =  yarn over
pm  =  place marker
The little owl is worked from the top down on the sweater.

Knitting Tip:  When working a garter st button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch marker at the point where each band begins.  It’s a reminder to make sure those 4 sts are always knitted.

Cast on 68 sts
Rows 1 and 2: work in k2, p2 ribbing
Row 3:  Buttonhole row.
For a boy:  K2, yo, K2 tog, K2, P2 across
For a girl:  K2, P2 to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2
Rows 4-6:  Continue in k2, p2 ribbing

Yoke
Row 1:  k4 (button band), k9 for front, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k30 for back, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k9 for front, k4 (button band)
Row 2:  k4, purl across slipping markers as you go, k4
Row 3:  k4, k to the st before the next marker, inc slip marker, inc, repeat across  (total of 8 increases - 76 sts)

Work buttonholes after every 8th ridge on the button band.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 seventeen times.  You should have 212 stitches and you will have worked a total of 3 button holes.

Sleeves (done on straight needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve.  Taking a size 3 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the straight needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.
Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 37 rows in stockinette st.
Decrease 2 sts in the last row.
Knit 12 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.

Note:  If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18” tail.

I like to seam the underarm at this point.  It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.

Sleeves (done on circular needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve.  Taking a size 3 circular needle (16 inch), remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the shorter circular needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the long circular needle.
Transfer 21 stitches to the 2nd shorter circular needle.

Rnd 1:  Slide the sts on needle #2 onto the cable part of the needle and then drop it to the back.  Using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts.  Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.

Rnd 2:  Drop needle #2 to the back and using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts.  Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.

Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 seventeen times for a total of 37 rounds.
Decrease 2 sts in the last round
Knit 12 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Pick up the longer circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish or the circular needle sleeve, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve.  Finish the second sleeve as the first.

Note:  When attaching the yarn under the arm, leave a long tail to use in stitching up the little hole that will be left when the sweater is finished.

Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front.  Turn work.
Next row:  K4, purl across to last 4 sts, knit.

Always remember to work a buttonhole after every 8th ridge.

Body
Row 1:  knit across, increase 2 sts in each armhole (124 sts)
Row 2:  k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3:  knit across
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 16 rows
Row 17:  (right side) k4, (p3, k8) repeat across ending with p3, k4
Row 18:  (wrong side) k4, (k3, p8) repeat across ending with k7
Row 19:  k4, (p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back k2, k2 from cable needle, p3) repeat across ending with p3, k4
Row 20: Repeat row 18
Row 21:  k4, (p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1) repeat across ending with p3, k4
Row 22:  k4, (k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) repeat across ending with k7
Row 23:  (buttonhole row) repeat row 17
Row 24:  repeat row 18
Row 25:  repeat row 19 (cable row)
Row 26:  repeat row 18
Row 27:  repeat row 17
Row 28:  repeat row 18
Row 29:  repeat row 17
Row 30:  repeat row 18
Row 31:  repeat row 17
Row 32:  repeat row 18
Row 33:  repeat row 19 (cable row)
Row 34:  repeat row 18
Row 35:  repeat row 17
Row 36:  k4, purl across, k4
Row 37:  knit across

Work 12 rows of k2, p2 ribbing
Bind off loosely in ribbing
Weave in ends, stitch closed the little hole in the underarm, sew buttons on the button band opposite the button holes.

Sunday, February 5, 2017


Good morning!  This shawl is named after my paternal grandmother, Coletta LeGrand.  She taught me the stitch which she called "Lark's Head".  I have seen this stitch in several places with other names.  But for me, it will always be the Lark's Head.

Coletta’s Shawl



Pattern  Stitch = multiple of 4 sts + 1

Each color is worked for 2 rows.  This pattern lends itself very nicely to 3 colors or using up scraps.

Begin with 2 foundation rows.
Chain 101
Row 1:  dc in 4th ch from hook and in next ch, * ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next 3 chs.  Repeat from * across.  Ch 3, turn.

Row 2:  dc in next 2 dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next 3 dc, repeat from * across.   Ch 4, turn.

Pattern rows:

Row 3:  Change color.  sk next dc, * dc in next dc, work a long dc in next ch 1 space 2 rows below, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, repeat from * across ending with last dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch.   Ch 4, turn.

Row 4:   *dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, skip next dc, repeat from * across ending with last dc in 3rd ch of turning ch.  Ch 3, turn.

Row 5:  Change color.  *work a long dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc, repeat from * across.  Ch 3, turn.

Repeat rows 2 - 5 to desired length.

Repeat rows 1 and 2, fasten off.





Copyright 2014
Susan A. Coes
You may use this pattern for charitable purposes only.  Neither the pattern nor items produced from this pattern are to be sold.  Do not publish or post this pattern without my written permission.  All rights reserved

Sunday, September 4, 2016

Finally the Square Pattern


Good afternoon everyone.  I have finally been able to post my pattern for the square I used in the pretzel barrel baby blanket.  Enjoy


Sue’s Solid Granny Square



Materials
  worsted weight yarn
Size H crochet hook

ch = chain dc = double crochet hdc = half double crochet         sl st = slip stitch

Note:  Generally, 6 rounds will yield a 7 inch square.  However, older, thicker yarn will crochet up a little larger.

Chain 4, sl st into first chain to make a ring.

Round 1:  ch 3 to count as first dc, 2 dc into ring, ch 2, 3 dc into ring, ch 2, 3 dc into ring, ch 2, 3 dc into ring, ch 1, hdc into top of beginning ch 3.

Note:  by using a ch 1, hdc combination at the end of the round, you will be in the center of the corner, thus making it much easier to change colors smoothly on subsequent rounds.

Round 2:  ch 2 to count as first dc, 1 dc in the space created y the hdc.  (dc in each of next 3 dc, 2 dc, ch 2 , 2 dc in ch 2 space) 3 times, 2 dc in beg ch 1 space, ch 1, hdc in top of ch 2.  (7 dc on each side.)

Round 3:  Repeat round 2, each side will increase by  4 sts (11 sts on a side).

Continue in this manner until square reaches he size you need.

Round 4:  15 sts on a side
Round 5:  19 sts on a side
Round 6:  23 sts on a side

Finish off leaving a 24 inch tail for sewing squares together.

Friday, September 21, 2012

Looking for the Little Owl

Good morning all. I know I have been woefully neglectful in posting. I received a request some time ago to post the directions for the Little Owl Sweater Variation. I diligently started work on the directions.....then life got in the way. My mother had her other leg amputated and was in the hospital for 2 months. While she was there, my husband collapsed and was in the hospital for 2 weeks. Both of them have been home now for 6 weeks and I am just beginning to get organized. Every week there are doctor's appointments for one of them and between cooking, laundry, etc, etc, etc, I just haven't been able to get back to my patterns. Hopefully I will have some time soon to publish the new directions. I am so sorry.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

The Kitty Quilt


A while back a friend of mine asked my mom to make her a quilt with cats on it. Leanne bought the fabric and my mother (86 and bedridden) crafted the blocks by hand. I embroidered over every seam, put the blocks together and had it quilted. I brought it home and added the binding. Here is a picture of the finished product.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

A Variation of the Little Owl Sweater


I decided to play with the owl motif some more and put him around the bottom of another baby sweater. I like the way it mimics the hat.

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

The Little Owl has arrived

I just posted the pattern for the Little Owl Sweater Set. I hope that it is free of errors. If you find one please let me know so I can correct it. The spacing is not what I would have wanted but try as I might, I could not close up some of the dead space. I hope you all enjoy the little owl as much as I have.

Little Owl Sweater Set Pattern

Size: newborn
Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 3 needles:
one set of 24 inch cables
2 sets of 16 inch cables or one set of #3 straights
Cable needle
Yarn needle
7 buttons (7/16 inch)
Pattern Notes:
yo = yarn over
pm = place marker
The little owl is worked from the top down on the sweater.
Knitting Tip: When working a garter st button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch marker at the point where each band begins. It’s a reminder to make sure those 4 sts are always knitted.
Cast on 68 sts
Rows 1 and 2: work in k2, p2 ribbing
Row 3: Buttonhole row.
For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, Knit across
For a girl: K to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2
Rows 4-6: Continue in k2, p2 ribbing
Yoke
Row 1: k4 (button band), k9 for front, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k30 for back, pm, k6 for sleeve, pm, k9 for front, k4 (button band)
Row 2: k4, purl across slipping markers as you go, k4
Row 3: k4, k to the st before the next marker, inc slip marker, inc, repeat across (total of 8 increases - 76 sts)
Work buttonholes after every 8th ridge on the button band.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 seventeen times. You should have 212 stitches and you will have worked a total of 3 button holes.
Sleeves (done on straight needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the straight needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.
Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 37 rows in stockinette st.
Decrease 2 sts in the last row.
Knit 12 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Note: If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18” tail.
I like to seam the underarm at this point. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.
Sleeves (done on circular needles)
Knit across front to 1st sleeve. Taking a size 3 circular needle (16 inch), remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (42) onto the shorter circular needle, remove 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the long circular needle.
Transfer 21 stitches to the 2nd shorter circular needle.

Rnd 1: Slide the sts on needle #2 onto the cable part of the needle and then drop it to the back. Using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.
Rnd 2: Drop needle #2 to the back and using needle #1, knit the 1st 21 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 21 sts on needle #2.

Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 seventeen times for a total of 37 rounds.
Decrease 2 sts in the last round
Knit 12 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing.
Bind off loosely in ribbing.
Pick up the longer circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish or the circular needle sleeve, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve. Finish the second sleeve as the first.
Note: When attaching the yarn under the arm, leave a long tail to use in stitching up the little hole that will be left when the sweater is finished.
Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front. Turn work.
Next row: K4, purl across to last 4 sts, knit.
Always remember to work a buttonhole after every 8th ridge.

Body
Row 1:
knit across
Row 2: k4, purl across to last 4 sts, k4
Row 3: k10, p3 k8,p3 , k80, p3, k8, p3, k10
Row 4: k4, p6, k3, p8, k3, p80, k3, p8, k3, p6, k4
Row 5: k10, *p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, p3,** k80, repeat from * to ** k10
Row 6: repeat row 4
Row 7: k10, p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k80, p3 k1, p2, k2, p2, k1, p3, k10
Row 8: k4, p6, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p80, k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3, p6, k4
Row 9: repeat row 3
Row 10: repeat row 4
Row 11: repeat row 5
Row 12: repeat row 4
Row 13: repeat row 3
Row 14: repeat row 4
Row 15: repeat row 3
Row 16: repeat row 4
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 4
Row 19: repeat row 5
Row 20: repeat row 4
Row 21: repeat row 3
Beginning with a purl row work 16 rows of stockinette stitch.
Work 12 rows of k2, p2 ribbing
Bind off loosely in ribbing

Weave in ends, stitch closed the little hole in the underarm, sew buttons on the button band opposite the button holes.

Little Owl Hat

Size: newborn
Materials: Soft Sport Weight yarn
Size 4 and 6 needles either straights or a 24 inch cable
(You will be working back and forth in rows.)
Cable needle
Yarn needle

Pattern notes: The little owl is worked from the bottom up on the hat.
Cast on 68 sts with smaller needles
Work k2, p2 ribbing for 3 inches increasing 1 st on each end of the last row.
Switch to larger needles
Row 1: right side (p3, k8) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 2: (k3, p8) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 3: (p3, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle, sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: repeat row 1
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: repeat row 1
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 1
Row 10: repeat row 2
Row 11: repeat row 3
Row 12: repeat row 2
Row 13: (p3, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1) repeat across ending with p3.
Row 14: (k3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1) repeat across ending with k3.
Row 15: repeat row 1
Row 16: repeat row 2
Row 17: repeat row 3
Row 18: repeat row 2
Beginning with a knit row work 6 rows of stockinette stitch.
Begin decrease rows:
Row 1: (knit 5, k2tog) repeat across
Row 2: purl across
Repeat these 2 rows with one less stitch between decreases each time until you complete the row (k2 tog across). Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread the tail into the yarn needle and weave through the remaining sts, pull up tightly and fasten securely. Sew the seam, reversing the seam when you get to the fold up part of the cuff.

Copyright 2011
Susan A. Coes
all rights reserved

Please respect my decision to provide this pattern free of charge by not selling copies or trying to claim it as your own.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Little Owl Sweater Set



I just finished my newest sweater set. I couldn't wait until I wrote out all the directions, so I am just sharing the picture right now. As soon as I get everything all written out, I will post the pattern. This one is done with sport weight yarn and size 3 needles and is newborn size.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Blessing Sets for Pomona Valley Hospital

I have been asked by many people about the patterns for the gowns I made for Pomona Valley Hospital.



The blanket pattern was a free pattern offered in a newsletter to which I subscribe. The pattern for the pink and white gown can be found here:
http://www.angelfire.com/va/afghans4angels2/NewbornBurialGownSet.html



The blanket is my pattern for the Snowflake Kisses blanket. The pattern is available here on my blog. The pattern for this little white gown is from Inknitters Magazine Fall '04 Charity supplement. It is available online here:






The pattern for this blanket is from a Leisure Arts Leaflet #3403, Cuddly Pooh Afghans for the Nursery. The third gown was designed by Barbara Wampler and she has since removed the pattern from the internet due to people's misuse - a sad but necessary thing to do sometimes. Thank you to everyone who has very kindly complimented me on my work. I firmly believe that when God gives you a gift it is your duty to share that gift with the world.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Erica's Scrap Quilt










Another Scrap Quilt





My niece, Erica is expecting her first child in June. Since she wanted to decorate the baby's room in bright primary colors, I decided to make her a crib quilt in those colors. I went to my mom's scrap basket and pulled out all the little pieces in red, blue, green, yellow and orange and set to work. I chose a modified log cabin pattern and crafted 6 inch blocks. I found backing material that was balloons in the exact same colors. The sashing is white on white with dots that seem to match the colored ones on the back. I finished it off with Prairie Points in the same primary colors.
































Saturday, February 26, 2011

Revising Snowflake Kisses Baby Blanket



I would like to thank Sandi for bringing to my attention that the directions for the Snowflake Kisses Baby Blanket needed some tweaking to make them more easily understood. http://needleworkersroom.blogspot.com/2008/08/snowflake-kisses-baby-blanket.html
To that end I have edited the pattern and printed the changes in red. The confusion came from the fact that the pattern repeat is a multiple of 8 plus 5. So strictly speaking, to count the stitches in pure mathematical form doesn't work. I hope this makes things a little more clear.




Thank you to everyone who has used my patterns and enjoyed them. It brings me great joy to be able to write them for you.

Thursday, September 16, 2010

My "American Girl" Doll


Awhile back I bought an American Girl clone to use as a model for making doll clothes for my granddaughter. She was scandalized that my dolly arrived at my house "nekked". So after making myself some new denim shorts, I took the scraps and made my dolly an outfit. The shoes came from JoAnn's (with a coupon, of course). So here is my "Rebecca" stylin'. Her friend the sheep was made by my daughter.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Sue's Easy Top Down Baby Sweater


For Stephanie and Debbie, who have been asking for me to post this pattern, here it is. I'm sorry it has taken so long. I hope the wait was worth it. The hat is just a standard stocking cap pattern and the little sockies are a pattern by my friend Beth. But any standard baby sock pattern will work.


Sue's Easy Top Down Baby Sweater



Size: 0-3 months

Materials: Soft worsted weight yarn (model made with Caron Simply Soft)

Main Color: approximately 3 oz.

Contrasting Color: small amount

Size 6 and 8 (US) needles (24" circular and straight)

Stitch markers

Size F crochet hook (optional)

Yarn needle

4 buttons


Pattern Notes: To increase, knit in the front and the back of the indicated stitch.


Knitting Tip: When working a garter stitch button band, I find it helpful to use a stitch maker at the point where each band begins. It's a reminder to make sure those 4 stitches are always knitted.


With contrasting color and the smaller circular needles, cast on 52 sts.

Rows 1 and 2: work in K2, P2 ribbing

Row 3: change to main color and continue in K2. P2 ribbing

Row 4: K2, P2 across

Row 5: Change to larger circular needles, buttonhole row.

For a boy: K2, yo, K2 tog, knit across.

For a girl: Knit across to the last 4 sts, K2 tog, yo, K2.


Buttonholes will be worked every 8 ridges (2nd on 8th increase row, 3rd on row 7 of the body and 4th on row 23 of the body.


Row 6: Divide work as follows: K4 sts for button border, P8 for the front, pm, P6 for the sleeve, pm, P16 for the back, pm, P6 for the sleeve, pm, P8 for the front, K4 for the border.

Row 7: K to the st before the marker, inc, slip marker, inc, repeat across (8 increases - 60 sts).

Row 8: K4, P to the last 4 sts, K4, slipping markers as you go.

Repeat rows 7 and 8 ten times. You should have a total of 140 sts.


Sleeves

Knit across front to 1st marker. Taking a size 8 straight needle, remove the 1st marker and knit the sleeve sts (28) onto the straight needle, remove the 2nd marker and leave all other sts on the circular needle.

Knitting now in rows on straight needles only, beginning with a purl row, knit 20 rows in stocking st.

Change to smaller straight needles and knit 3 rows in K2, P2 ribbing.

Change to contrasting color and knit 2 rows in K2, P2 ribbing as established. Bind off loosely in ribbing with the contrasting color.


Note: If sewing the underarm seam leave an 18" tail on the main color. If using the alternate sleeve finish don't cut the main color.


I like to seam the underarm at thispoint. It makes for a smoother transition when you knit across to attach the fronts to the back.


Alternate Sleeve Finishing

Fold sleeve right sides together and loosely slip st the underarm together back to armpit edge with an F crochet hook and the MC. Slip the loop from the crochet hook onto your circular knitting needle (one stitch added) and knit across the sweater back. Work the second sleeve the same as the first.


Pick up the circular needle, attach yarn (unless you used the alternate sleeve finish, in which case the yarn is already attached) and knit across the sweater back to the other sleeve. Finish the second sleeve as the first.


Sweater Body

Picking up the circular needles, knit across the sweater front. Turn work.

Next row: K4, purl across to the last 4 sts, knit.


Beginning with a knit row, work 24 rows of stocking stitch for the body of the sweater, remembering to work a buttonhole every 8 ridges (on row 7 and row 23). Change to smaller circular needles.

Work 3 rows of K2, P2 ribbing, then change to contrasting color and work 2 rows of ribbing. Bind off loosely in ribbing.


Weave in loose ends.

Sew on buttons.


copyright 2010

Susan A. Coes

Friday, April 2, 2010

Pretzel Barrel Baby Blanket Revisited


I received a note asking me about the pattern I used for the square for this baby blanket. I have posted my version of the square I used for this blanket. It is tagged under afghan squares. 

I also thought it might be helpful to include my strategy. I wanted to use up all my little balls of yarn and maximize usefullness while minimizing waste. So I worked up a chart for the yardage required for each round of the square. Then I could measure my little "waddies" and know which round was best suited for each one thereby reducing waste.


Using an H hook and worsted weight yarn here is what I got:

Round 1: 2 yards (12 stitches)

Round 2: 4 yards (28 stitches)

Round 3: 6 yards (44 stitches)

Round 4: 8 yards (60 stitches)

Round 5: 10 yards (76 stitches)

Round 6: 12 yards (92 stitches)

Round 7: 14 yards (108 stitches)


My target size was a 7 inch square. I don't very often need the 7th round. The yardages will vary somewhat with the thickness of the yarn. The thicker the yarn and the tighter the twist, the fewer stitches you can get from it. I hope this helps.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Sue's Onesie


Sue's Onesie





Materials

For preemie/small newborn size

Size 4 and 6 dpns or 16 inch circular needles
Sport weight or baby yarn - model made with Lion Brand Baby Soft


3 buttons
Stitch markers
3 snaps
2 pieces of ¼ ribbon (each 16 inches long) for girl sleeves


With smaller needles, cast on 58 sts. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 3 rows.

Buttonhole row: K1, P2 tog, yo, continue in ribbing. Work 2 more rows in ribbing.

Switch to larger needles and K 1 row, dividing work as follows: K10, inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K5, inc in next st, place marker, inc n next st, K20, inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K5, inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K10. (8 increases)

Row 2: K5, purl across, K5.

Yoke

Row 3: Knit across, continuing to increase before and after each marker on each knit row.
Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: Purl across, Knitting first 5 and last 5 sts of the row.
Row 5: Buttonhole row. Knit across the row working a K1 increase before and after each marker, to within 3 sts of end, then Yo, K 2 tog, K1.
Rows 7 and 9: Knit
Row 11: repeat row 5.
Row 13 and 15: Knit
Row 16 Placket front: Slip the last 5 sts from needle to dpn, hold behind the first 5 sts. (Make sure the buttonholes are to the outside of the shirt.) Knit the 5 sts from the needle and the 5 sts from the dpn together so you end up with 5 sts and a placket opening. Continue to knit the row on dpns (or circular needles) - knitting is circular.

Next round: inc before and after each marker

Continue inc every other round until yoke measures 3 (3 ½) inches. Measure along raglan line, not including the neck ribbing.

Sleeves: knit to sleeve section, the sts between the first and second markers. Leaving all other sts on circular needles work over sleeve sts with larger dpns. Divide sleeve sts into thirds and join to knit circular. (The sleeves could be worked flat and then the inseam sewn after the shirt is finished.) The beg and end of this row will be the sleeve inseam. K 2 rounds, then switch to smaller needles and work 4 rounds of K1, P1 ribbing. Bind off loosely in ribbing. Attach yarn and knit over to the other sleeve section. Repeat sleeve directions.

Variation - Girl Sleeves: work flat in rows.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl.
Row 3: K1, *K2tog, yo, repeat from * across. Eyelet row
Row 4: purl
Row 5: knit
Row 6: knit
Bind off in knit.
Thread ribbon through eyelets and tie in a bow on top.

Body: All sts remaining are the body of the onesie. Attach yarn and knit circular on right side joining the front to the back . Continue with the body until it is 7 ½ inches long or desired body length.

Leg shaping: Divide work at sides (46 sts to the back and 45 sts to the front).
Back
Using straight needles work across the back sts (leaving the front sts on circular needles).
Row 1: K1, K2tog, K40, K2 tog, K1
Row 2: p1, p2tog, P38, P2tog , P1

Repeat these 2 rows, decreasing 1 st at each side until 18 sts remain. Work 5 rows even.
Next row: P8, P2tog, P8
Bind off in knit.

Front
Using straight needles work across front sts
Row 1: K1, K2tog, K39, K2tog, K1
Row 2: P1, P2tog P 37, P2tog P1

Repeat these 2 rows decreasing 1 st at each side until 17 sts remain. Work 6 rows even. Bind off in knit.

Finishing:
Sew on buttons
Weave in ends
Sew snaps on crotch opening, lapping front over back.
Copyright, April 2004, Susan A. Coes

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Patriotic Wheelchair Wrap


My daughter Stephanie has taken my pattern for the Wheelchair Wrap and made a patriotic version. I think it is beautiful and decided to share a picture of it with you all.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

The Ultimate Scrap Quilt








My mother who is bedridden with a variety of ailments, not the least of which is a paralyzed left side and rheumatoid arthritis on the right has been making quilt blocks by hand since last January. She is making her version of a modified log cabin block. I take these home, trim them up and put them together into quilt tops for her and then deliver them to the quilter to be quilted. The other day, it occurred to me that there was a design to be had in all the cut off pieces that I had been dumping into a basket all these months. And voila! the ultimate scrap quilt was born. I took some of the cut offs and put them together jigsaw puzzle style and came up with the quilt pictured here. It is crib or laprobe size. I am pretty happy with it.




Sunday, August 23, 2009

Purple Serger Quilt


Just posting a picture of my latest project. My dear friend Polly gave me a pattern for this quilt after giving me a whirlwind lesson on my new serger. This is a quilt meant to be done entirely on the serger. I did cheat a little. I added some quilting lines not in the pattern and did the binding the regular way on my other sewing machine. I think the binding done on the serger creates cumbersome corners. The finished quilt measures about 36 by 36 inches. I think I will hang it on the wall of my sewing room since purple is my favorite color.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Hat to match Bootie Socks

My daughter begged me to write up my directions for the little hat I made to go with the Bootie Socks. So, Stephanie, here you go:

The Hat
Knitted with 2 circular needles

Materials: Worsted Weight yarn (model was made with Caron Simply Soft).
2 -size 8 circular needles with 16 or 24 inch cables
yarn needle

Cuff: With contrasting color, cast 56 stitches onto one circular needle. Being careful not to twist, slip 28 sts to the other circular needle. With the stitches on the needle tips, and holding the tips of the 2 circulars side by side, transfer the 1st st on the left needle (1st cast on stitch) to the right needle, then slip the 1st st on the right needle through the just transferred st and onto the left needle.

Rnd 1: Slide the sts on needle #2 onto the cable part of the needle and then drop it to the back. Using needle #1, knit the 1st 28 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and knit the 28 sts on needle #2.
Rnd 2: Drop needle #2 to the back and using needle #1, purl the 1st 28 sts. Drop needle #1, pick up needle #2, and purl the 28 sts on needle #2.

Repeat rnds 1 and 2 two more times (6 total rows).

Change to main color. Knit every round, always knitting the 1st 28sts with needle #1 and the 2nd 28 sts with needle #2, for a total of 4 1/2 inches from the beginning.

Shaping the Top

Rnd 1: *K2tog, K6, repeat from * around.
Rnd 2: Knit around

Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 decreasing the number of sts between the K2tog by one on each dec row until you get to Rnd 15 (K2tog around). There will be 7 sts left. Cut yarn and thread through the live sts remaining and pull tight.

Weave in ends.
Fold up cuff.

Copyright 2009 Susan A. Coes
all rights reserved
This pattern may be used for personal or charity purposes only. It may not be sold.